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Corset help~

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Corset help~
Post By Mandie_Chan. 23/11/09, 07:57 am

So... I'm looking to make a corset (because I can lol) I've found a pattern (Simplicity 5726 -after a lot of looking >_<;)

Before I start I was wondering about a few things:
-is there a 'best' kind of fabric to use? Heavy/med/light wight?
-cost of boning, can I get away with something cheaper or do I need to spend a bit more for quality?
-any tips for sewing Corsets? (I've sewn plastic boning before so I've got a bit of experience in that area ^_^)

um... think that's all.
Many thanks in advance~
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Mandie_Chan
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Re: Corset help~
Post By Mischa. 23/11/09, 08:19 am

Waits for Static and SS to see this :) they know heaps. I've also found this community really useful http://community.livejournal.com/corsetmakers/ - here are other people who have used this pattern: http://community.livejournal.com/corsetmakers/tag/simplicity+5726

I've made one corset before: I am horribly cheap so I used calico and quilting cotton with cable ties for boning. It holds it up, but you couldn't tightlace without it buckling.

i found the hardest part was sewing the binding onto the edges. A lot of the work is sewing the channels, which isn't hard just time consuming :)

here's the finished version:
http://community.livejournal.com/corsetmakers/1294762.html
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Re: Corset help~
Post By Mandie_Chan. 23/11/09, 08:25 am

ooooooo~
*saves links*
Thank you very much ^_^

well I've got a bit of time to spare at the moment so I can do the time consuming part ok~

wow yours is so pretty! Love the fabric~
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Re: Corset help~
Post By Static. 23/11/09, 09:31 am

Hehe, that is the first corset pattern I ever used! Make sure you keep the pattern pieces in the right order - it'll drive you nuts otherwise Razz

It's fairly straightforward, and a lot of the worst bit is the boning channels. Which, as Mischa said, isn't hard just time consuming and a pain to get your stitches looking all pretty. And don't trust the sizes on the packet! Measure each pattern piece, and make a garment that is about 3 inches smaller than your own measurements, or you'll have the same problem me and Mischa had with a corset that's too damn big.

With that pattern in particular I also had to modify it - I took it in at bust and hip to get it fitting right, but for a proper reduction you're probably best to leave the curve as-is and wear it lots Razz
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Re: Corset help~
Post By Mandie_Chan. 23/11/09, 09:59 am

Static wrote:
Hehe, that is the first corset pattern I ever used! Make sure you keep the pattern pieces in the right order - it'll drive you nuts otherwise Razz

Are there that many pieces? O.O
gah! What have I got myself into?!
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Re: Corset help~
Post By SpamTomatoSpam. 23/11/09, 10:09 am

I made a corset using Rigilene (plastic) boning, it was pleasantly cheap ($1/m!) and it was the variety that you can sew through which was GREAT because I didn't have to muck around sewing channels or anything else fiddly, I just sewed it directly onto the outside of the corset and then sewed some trim over top.

HOWEVER.
The boning did start to lose its shape after about a day. I had my corset laced pretty tightly, so depending on how you wear it it might last longer, but you probably will need to replace the boning if you're planning on wearing it more than a couple of times. And if you have sewed the boning directly onto the corset then unpicking it all could be quite time-consuming (so perhaps sewing channels might be faster in the long-term)

If you do end up using plastic boning, try not to spend too much time sitting down while wearing your corset, it will make the boning lose its shape very fast (ie. long car trips would be a bad idea.) Kneeling is a good alternative.

I haven't used steel boning before but from what I can tell it's pretty awesome, so long as you can afford it. You can always reuse it for other corsets though, or probably just sell it if you no longer need it.
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Re: Corset help~
Post By Static. 23/11/09, 10:49 am

Steel boning is far superior; spring steel - not spiral. It's also not actually that expensive, especially if you're planning on wearing it a lot. Plastic, as far as I'm concerned, is useless...but then, I'm a sloucher Razz it kinks really quickly and doesn't look very nice. Spiral steel boning also bends really easily - if you use lots and lots and lots of it (as Michaela put it, "like another layer of fabric") you'd possibly be alright, but I wouldn't recommend it. However, if it's your first one, go for plastic - you'll get a nice feel for how to put a corset together, and there's probably no need to steel just yet :)
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Re: Corset help~
Post By Guest. 23/11/09, 12:54 pm

Hey...I was mentioned...lol Very Happy

If you want cheap spring steel: A Rare Notion is GREAT!!

I use pattern Sm5006, really good and easy...or Laughing Moon...damn, thats right...I can send you my copy of "How is Make and Fit a Victorian Corset" If you like...?

Also, here is a really good no0b Corset Drafting Tutorial Here

SS

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Re: Corset help~
Post By Mandie_Chan. 23/11/09, 01:07 pm

Thank you guys so much~

Thanks for the links SS~
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Re: Corset help~
Post By neimhaille. 23/11/09, 03:27 pm

As mentioned at my panel there is a *big* difference between historical corsetry and modern. And while all materials are equal not all uses of all materials are equal ;)

Historically speaking you are look at fairly light boning but lots and lots and lots of it. In this regard plastic is your friend. It works like real baleen but you have to treat it like real baleen. Which means lots and lots and lots of it ;) And like real horn. You need lots and lots and lots of it. I think the point has been made ;)
http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/4subjectsearch/lingerie/lingerie18th/lingerie18.html
See those lines? Each one separates one piece of boning from the other. There are no gaps. There are more than 100 bones in each corset.
They are also made with fabric not much heavier than calico, but mugh tighter woven than we have now. Three layers at most. Forget jeans fabric but a cotton twill/drill will be ok.
I made a set of "Effigy stays" based on those put on Elizabeth I's effigy in 1603 and I made it from a linen/cotton twill:
http://glittersweet.deviantart.com/art/Renaissance-effigy-corset-136441439
I'm remaking them from a sturdier linen twill with an interlining of a fine sheer linen.


When the whales started to not bounce back from all the hunting steel was used as an alternative. And then replaced.
http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/4subjectsearch/lingerie/lingerie19th/lingerie19.html
http://www.antiquecorsetgallery.com/latevic.php
Just before the whales started to not recover.

I have handled one corset from the early teens which was made for a woman with a waist of about 1.5m and that was the first and last corset I have ever seen or heard of that used steels as wide as each side of a busk! There was a gap of about 10cm between each though if not more. The fabric was a silk damask over maybe two layers of drill weight fabric.


If you are going to by online for steels get samples from the different companies. The sturdier stuff is good for the front and backs of corsets while the softer stuff is good for the sides. The sides of the body of women tend to have far more curvature than front or back and you need something that has good flex.
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Re: Corset help~
Post By Static. 24/11/09, 04:11 am

I'm determined to make something with plastic that doesn't suck the kumara at some point, lol...I think when I do my Marie Antoinette I'll try out cable ties. That'll be fun!
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Re: Corset help~
Post By Guest. 24/11/09, 04:33 am

I've used a fair amount of plastic bones and I find it depends what you want out of it. I will often throw a few lines of plastic boning into dresses around the belly - it reminds me to sit up straight and holds my pot belly in, but without dramatically changing my body shape.

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